How to inspect a used car before buying

Do your homework before you set off

Buying a used car in the West Country is a slightly different game to buying one in a big city. Our lanes are narrow and often wet, our winters are damp rather than freezing, and a lot of cars here spend their lives within sniffing distance of the coast. All of that leaves marks, and a bit of preparation means you will spot them before you hand over any money.

Before you travel, ask the seller three questions by message so you have their answers in writing: how long have they owned it, how many keepers does the log book show, and is there any outstanding finance. Check the MOT history online — it is free and it will show you the recorded mileage at each test, plus every advisory. A car that failed on corrosion two years ago and passed the next day with no welding mentioned deserves a closer look underneath.

Arrange to view in daylight, on a dry day if you can manage it. Water hides scratches, dents and fresh paint, and a wet car makes it almost impossible to judge panel colours. Take a torch, a rag, a tyre pressure gauge and an old towel to lie on. If you are not confident about mechanical matters, take someone who is — an extra pair of eyes on a second-hand purchase is worth more than any checklist.

Paperwork and service history

A stamped book is nice, but receipts are better. Stamps can be bought; invoices with dates, mileages and parts listed are much harder to fake. Look for a cambelt or chain interval if the car uses one — on many engines it is due at 60,000 to 100,000 miles or every five years, and a missing receipt means you should price that job into your offer.

• Check the V5C log book. The seller's name and address should match where you are standing.
• Confirm the chassis number on the document matches the one stamped under the bonnet and shown on the plate in the door shut.
• Look at the MOT certificate or online record for advisories on tyres, brakes, suspension and corrosion.
• Ask for the number of keys. Two keys and a working fob are worth several hundred pounds on many modern cars.
• Check the mileage on the odometer against the service receipts and MOT history. Uneven gaps or a figure lower than last year is a red flag.

Walk around the car in daylight

Start at the front and work your way round slowly. Look along each panel from a low angle — reflections should ripple smoothly. Uneven gaps between the bonnet, wings and doors suggest accident repair. Run a magnet wrapped in a cloth over steel panels; it will not stick to filler.

Rust matters here more than in drier parts of the country. Check the wheel arches, the sills, the bottom of the doors, the boot floor and the rear subframe. Coastal cars suffer on brake pipes and suspension components too, so shine your torch underneath and look for heavy flaking.

Tyres tell a story about the owner as much as the car. The legal minimum is 1.6mm across the central three-quarters of the tread, but anything under 3mm will need replacing soon. Look for uneven wear on the inner or outer edges, which points to alignment or suspension trouble. Check all four tyres for matching brands and look at the four-digit date code on the sidewall — a tyre over six years old is worth replacing regardless of tread. Uneven wear on one corner only often means a kerbed wheel or a bent suspension arm.

Under the bonnet and inside the cabin

The engine should be stone cold when you arrive. A seller who has warmed it up beforehand is hiding something — usually a rough idle, smoke or a rattle that vanishes once warm.

• Pull the dipstick. Oil should be golden-brown, not black sludge, and the level should sit between the marks.
• Check the coolant is at the right level and a clean pink, blue or green — not rusty brown or oily.
• Look for white emulsion under the oil filler cap, which can mean a failing head gasket.
• Inspect the brake fluid reservoir. Dark fluid suggests it has not been changed in years.
• Check the battery terminals for heavy corrosion and ask how old the battery is.

Inside, sit in the driver's seat and turn the ignition on without starting the engine. Every warning light should illuminate and then go out — engine management, ABS, airbag and any diesel particulate warning. One that stays on is an automatic bargaining point, not a small detail.

Now test everything, even the things you think you will never use. Windows, mirrors, heater fan on every speed, air conditioning (it should blow properly cold within a minute), heated seats, radio, all interior lights, the horn. Press the footwell carpets and boot carpet with the flat of your hand for damp, and sniff for a musty smell — leaky sunroofs and boot seals are common on older cars and our weather finds them out.

The test drive tells you the truth

Insist on driving for at least fifteen minutes, on a mix of roads. Start it cold, listen for rattles, then take in a bumpy lane to hear suspension knocks and a faster road to feel for vibration through the steering wheel. Check the clutch bites smoothly and the gearbox does not crunch. Brake firmly from speed on a quiet straight — the car should pull up straight with no pulsing through the pedal. Afterwards, look under the car again for fresh oil or coolant drips.

Agreeing a price and driving away

Use what you found as a negotiating tool, calmly and specifically. "The two front tyres are close to the limit and the air conditioning needs a regas" is far stronger than a vague complaint. Once you agree a figure, get a written receipt with both names, the date, the price and the mileage. Complete the tear-off slip on the V5C, and remember you cannot tax or insure a car in your name until the paperwork is sorted — so do not plan to drive it home until it is.