Essential checks for high mileage used cars

Mileage alone tells you very little

A car with 120,000 miles on the clock can be a far better buy than one showing 60,000. What matters is how those miles were racked up and whether anyone bothered to look after it along the way. A motorway-munching diesel serviced on the dot will often outlast a low-mileage town car that has spent its life on short, cold trips. Here in the West Country we have a particular mix: long runs down the A30 and the M5, plus steep, stop-start lanes in places like Dartmouth, Padstow and the Mendips. Both leave their mark, and both should shape the questions you ask before you hand over any money.

Clutch and gearbox

A clutch is a wear item, and on a high-mileage car it may well be nearing the end of its life. Replacing one is rarely cheap, so budget for it if the signs are there.

• Pedal feel: a clutch that bites very high, or feels vague and spongy, is usually on its way out.
• Slip test: in a safe, open spot, select a higher gear at low speed and accelerate gently. If the revs rise without the car pulling, the clutch is slipping.
• Judder: vibration through the pedal as you pull away often points to a worn or contaminated clutch.
• Gear selection: crunchy or stiff changes, especially into second, can mean worn synchromesh rather than a clutch problem — an expensive distinction.

On automatics, check that changes are smooth when the gearbox is both cold and warm. A hesitant or thumping shift on a high-mileage automatic is a warning sign rather than a quirk. Ask when the transmission fluid was last changed; plenty of owners never do it, and it matters.

Suspension, steering and our roads

West Country roads are hard on suspension. Potholes, patchy tarmac and steep, twisting descents wear bushes, shocks and springs faster than a gentle commute would, and salt air near the coast does its bit on exposed components too.

• Bounce test: push down firmly on each corner. The car should settle within a bounce or two, not wallow.
• Leaks: look at the shock absorbers for oily misting — a sure sign they are past their best.
• Knocks and clonks: listen over speed bumps and rough lanes. Worn anti-roll bar links and bushes are common and cheap; worn wishbone bushes and top mounts less so.
• Tyre wear: uneven shoulders or cupping suggest alignment or suspension issues. Four matching, decent-brand tyres are a good sign of a cared-for car.
• Steering: any play at the wheel, or a wandering feel on the motorway, needs investigating before you buy.

Timing belt, chain and the paper trail

This is the single most important thing to get right. On many engines a snapped timing belt means a very large bill, sometimes a replacement engine. If the car uses a belt, find out exactly when it was last changed — not just the mileage, but the date, because belts age as well as wear. Most manufacturers suggest an interval of roughly 60,000 to 100,000 miles, or five to ten years, and the water pump and tensioners are usually done at the same time.

Chains are not automatically life-long either. A rattling noise on start-up, particularly from a cold engine, can point to a stretched chain and worn tensioners. Ask for receipts, a stamped service book and any invoices for cambelt work. A seller who can produce a folder of paperwork is worth more of your time than one who says it was "done a while back".

Fluids, cooling and the service history

Oil changes are the cheapest insurance a car ever gets. Look for evidence of regular servicing at sensible intervals, and be wary of a long gap in the history.

• Engine oil: pull the dipstick. Black is normal; gritty or milky is not. Milky oil can mean a failing head gasket.
• Coolant: check the level and colour when the engine is cold. Rusty brown coolant suggests neglect.
• Brake fluid: should be changed every couple of years, and it is often overlooked.
• Air and pollen filters: cheap items that reveal whether anyone has been paying attention.

What the test drive should tell you

Take it on a route that includes a decent hill, a stretch of faster road and some rough surface. Listen for rattles, watch the temperature gauge, and check that the heater blows hot and the air conditioning blows cold. Afterwards, look under the car for fresh drips and check the tyre pressures once the tyres are warm.

Finally, be honest about your budget. A high-mileage car at a keen price can be a genuine bargain, but only if you set aside a few hundred pounds for the jobs that will inevitably come up. If the clutch, cambelt and suspension all need attention at once, walk away — there will be another car along shortly, and in the West Country there always is.